Wednesday 29 January 2014

Trials and Tribulations of transport

It’s probably quite apparent that I love travelling; that feeling of butterflies in your stomach when you arrive at a new destination with wide eyes and a beaming smile ready to sink your teeth into a new time zone, culture or even city, for me personally the feeling is incomparable, 

                Though I must admit, sometimes the struggle of getting to the destination can be somewhat of a hassle with surprises at every turn; for example just the other week I was taking the boat, bus then train to Bangkok from Koh Phangan, firstly the boat resembled something from ‘The Perfect Storm’ with people puking at every wave, my bus then decided to break down in the middle of a highway leaving us sitting in the dirt for 2 hours, and finally my train which left on time ended up arriving in Bangkok 4 hours late…..typical ‘Thai Time’ where nothing really runs to its precise time.      That journey though was something of a dream compared to past events.

Back in 2009 when I first began my travels I recall being on a bus from Vientiane in Laos bound for Hanoi in Vietnam, this epic journey ended up taking us 36 hours on a rickety bus along dirt roads through the beautiful mountainous scenery of Laos.

About 20 hours in and after some questionable stops in urine drenched ‘toilets’ (if they could be called that) we pulled over at a small stall in front of a building, our driver exited the bus without saying a word to the 30/40 or so travellers seated in his vehicle, about 45 minutes past when everyone started getting impatient.

                We’d previously watched our driver walk into the building behind the stall and not return, following this we saw numerous other cars coming and going, their middle aged male drivers going inside and coming out after a short while; though not only did we see these gentlemen we saw a large number of girls exiting for a brief period having a smoke and walking back in……this wasn’t any normal building behind a stall, this was a brothel in the middle of nowhere where long distance drivers stopped to ‘relieve the stress’ of long haul journeys, so there we all sat for about 1 and a half hours while Mr Bus Driver got himself laid!

Though of course it’s not always the driver who prolongs the journey, I’ve also seen all out brawls take place in the walkway of a bus due to someone sitting in the incorrect seat, this occasion the gentleman who instigated the brawl was swiftly ejected from the bus face first into the dirt bloodied and bruised.    

                And of course the most damning of all is when you completely fuck up your own journey due to just the smallest of stupid decisions.

Early 2010 I was rounding off my 4 months in S.E Asia and travelling from Koh Phangan to Singapore, to then catch a flight to the land down under, it was an long journey consisting of a boat to the mainland, a bus to the border of Malaysia, then changing buses to travel down to Kuala Lumpur and then one last stretch to my final destination of Singapore where I’d rest my head for the night…..sounds simple enough right?...Wrong.

                Everything started to go wrong once I’d got off the boat, firstly our minibus broke down in the city of ‘Hat Yai’ a few hours from the Malaysian border, a back-up bus then turned up 3 hours later to take us across to Malaysia, after dropping myself and other frustrated backpackers off at the border we were then stranded in no man’s land without a hope in hell of making it down to KL, a few us put our heads together and pulled together some cash to pay ANOTHER minibus driver to take us to KL…..it was at this point I made the wrong decision.

                After the journey from hell to the border which should only take around 5 hours, which ended up taking about 12 I could safely say I had had enough and wanted to knock myself out for the rest of the journey to KL, so I necked a couple of Valium to doze off (Valium being an anti-anxiety drug and overall relaxant….fantastic stuff!)

                I thought to myself that 2 10mg pills just wouldn’t cut the mustard so I decided to dose myself up with another 3 just to ensure I’d be thoroughly in the land of nod.

I came round from a long blissful sleep to the sound of the driver talking through the speakers announcing;

“45 MINUTE, KUALA LUMPUR, 45 MINUTE”

My plan had worked! I had successfully knocked myself out for that leg of the journey, without waking once, I smiled an accomplished smile when I slowly came round to the realisation that I was sitting in something damp……if you are reading this thinking I had pissed myself, then you my friend would be wrong.

                The Valium apparently had worked better than I’d planned, not only was my mind in a complete state relaxation but also every muscle in my body, ultimately making me eject the entirety of my bowels into my £30 tailor made yoga pants from Hoi An in Vietnam.

Coming round to the realisation that I had completely shit myself at some point on the journey didn’t fill me with happiness I’m not going to lie, but the worse realisation was the fact I still had to sit there for 45 minutes in a puddle of my own faeces……the one and only word which came to mind was, shit!

So there I sat wallowing in my own self-pity and excrement for the rest of the journey to KL, once we’d stopped I swiftly wrapped a spare t-shirt around my waist to hide my shame and pelted for the toilet at the bus station where I ditched my clothes and cleaned myself up with wet wipes, now half ready for the next bus to Singapore.

I suppose the moral of the story is that; whilst travelling, shit happens……oh and maybe also don’t take 50mg of Valium at once.

 

Sunday 19 January 2014

Homeless in Bangkok

The sweat beads from my nose creating a dot-to- dot pattern on the crotch of my baggy fisherman pants, I disregard the fact that it’s starting to look like I’ve pissed myself purely due to exhaustion, inebriation and the ongoing madness around me.

It’s high season in Bangkok, Thailand and the tourists are out in their droves crowding the streets in a wondrous blur of backpackers, from newly enlightened souls fresh from India to fluorescent steroid munching ‘lads on tour’ ready for a night on Bangkok town.
I pull myself back to reality by pulling some ice from my beer glass and wiping my brow with it, as I do this I receive a heavy hand on my shoulder;

“Ah la la, this feurking girl, she has feurking hurt me for the last time, she comes to find me over new years and she tells me she loves me and I fall in love with her also, but feurk……now I cannot see her” the gentleman sitting next to me exclaims whilst sobbing.
The man’s name is ‘Eric’ and he is one of an estimated 400 homeless ‘farang’ (foreigner) living in Bangkok at the moment. Eric is a Frenchman who first started teaching in Thailand, nowadays he’s a member of the lonely hearts club 7 nights a week, he has been sleeping rough in Bangkok for almost 6 months.

I smile and pat his shoulder as he continues to bawl his eyes out, opposite me a man tries to get my attention, he mutters something in an inaudible blur along the lines of;

“Lewwkee, Luooeewwwkee! Dontcha’ fockin’ listen to ‘im, do yer’ ba ne’ chance have a cigarette?”

“Yeah course mate”

“….and 32 baht?”

This gentleman was named ‘Darrock’….or ‘Derrick’….or maybe ‘Darrow’, to be honest even after knowing him nearly a year I still can never understand his drunken mumblings let alone when he introduces himself.              The cause for the exact amount of ‘32Baht’ (which is asked regularly by the whole gang) is for them to go and by the delicious drink known as ‘SiamSato’, this sherry/rice wine comes in a large bottle with enough content to strip paint rom the walls at the cheap price of around 60p ($1).
Darrock is a proud Scotsman with a serious alcohol problem, he says he has been on the streets now for about 2 years though I’ve also heard him say it’s been a week…which I can even say isn’t true. He’ll occasionally wander back to the table with a cut eye, occasional broken nose or covered in his own blood, and when asked what happened, most the time the reply will be;

“Ohhh som’ fockin’ jumped op English Cont fockin battered me for nay fockin’ reason’”
                I know, I know, it all sounds like utter madness and to be honest it is, but the vast majority of my time in Bangkok Is spent with homeless foreigners who for one reason or another have lost themselves in Bangkok, why I spend most my time with them you ask?.....Purely for the fact it’s just soo much fucking fun!

The drinking gets intense don’t get me wrong and you do eventually come to the conclusion that madness is catching, but if you want to meet some of the most fuckin interesting people around, go down to ‘Gecko Bar’ on Soi Rambuttri in Bangkok and take a seat, you won’t forget it.

I came across beautiful smelly people around a year ago when I ran into some trouble with a lovely young lady, let’s say I was ‘wrongfully discharged’ from her apartment, she threw 200baht at me (4 pounds) knowing full well I had no finances and told me to “pack my fucking bag and give her the key”, so gracefully I did, catching a 200baht taxi from Sukhumvit to Khaosan Rd I walked the streets for the night trying to pull some money together from backpackers so I could get a room and some food, but to no prevail.
I was…well to put it bluntly, fucked. I had 5 days until I had a flight to where I had a job waiting, and not a penny till then.     Though by some twist of fate I ran into a friend who gave me 500 baht for a few nights rent and some food, it wouldn’t cover the 5 days but I at least had a bed to sleep on and a couple of meals in my stomach.

In true alcoholic style I also bought myself a beer with my meal to take the edge off of being screwed into near enough homelessness.
As I sat drinking I was explaining my situation to a few people, some of these people are the two I have already discussed, Eric, Darrock and a few of the others proceeded to pour me drinks from their glasses which they had somehow scrounged from elsewhere whilst Eric calmly explained to me in the timeless fashion though with a beautiful French accent; “Eh, feurk it, shit ‘appens”

Each and every time I see these guys and how hard it can actually get whilst travelling they still sit with smiles (though sometimes clouded by ‘love lost’ tears), I will remember that yes shit happens, but when you’re down the only way is up.